Why not twelve "best," do you ask? Simply because there are no twelve—or twenty, for that matter—which one can justly set down as the best for everybody and all conditions.

Granted good, healthy stock of well-chosen varieties, properly prepared soil and a fair amount of sun and air circulation, there is no reason why any one with a bit of ground eight feet by eight feet or thereabouts should not be able to plant a dozen rose-bushes early this Spring and have them begin blooming in June. Even the much-maligned city back yard often has unsuspected possibilities for growing this queen of flowers.

Planting should be done as early in the Spring as the ground can be worked, and the place where the bushes are to go should be ready for them before they arrive. If the site is not naturally well drained, it will be well to put in a four or six inch layer of stone, covered with ashes, at the bottom of the bed, eighteen inches below the ground level. On top of this goes good average garden soil thoroughly mixed with one-third to one-fourth its bulk of well-rotted barnyard manure, and raised three or four inches above the surrounding earth to allow for the inevitable settling. Where manure can not be obtained, ground bone from a garden-supply house is a good substitute, especially when its three grades , fine, medium and coarse, are used. After the bed is well dug, scatter the bone over it until the surface is nearly covered, then fork in thoroughly. Air-slaked lime, scattered on the surface at the rate of a cupful to each plant and forked in, will do much to correct any acidity or sourness which may exist in the soil.

Actual planting is simplicity itself. Most good roses are "budded" low—that is, the lowest branches come out two or three inches above the root. They should be set so that this junction of the top with the root stock comes one inch or two inches below the surface of the bed. Dig a hole amply large to take the roots without crowding, spread them out naturally and work fine soil around them, and then press the earth down firmly, but not hard, with your foot on all sides of the bush. A good watering and the scattering of a little loose earth over the firmed area to prevent the latter’s crusting over in the sun will finish the work.

Hybrid perpetual roses should be planted about two feet apart, while hybrid teas and teas may be as close together as fifteen or twenty inches.

Whatever class you bushes belong to, they should be severely cut back when first set out in the Spring, else their proper growth and flowering will be impaired.

In the latitude of New York City early planting can begin in late March or early April, while farther south the soil may be in good condition as early as February. Far northern planting is apt to be delayed until May first.

The following list provides a good range of color and form:

Hybrid Perpetuals ( "June roses" ) Clio—Flesh color. Deep center. Large globular flower.
Frau Karl Druschki—A splendid pure white sort, its buds tinged on the outside with pink.
George Dickson—A magnificent rich dark red, veined with crimson-maroon on the reverse of the petals. Very fragrant.
Paul Neyron—Deep rose color, very large flowers.

Hybrid Teas (vigorous, longer blooming season than Hybrid Perpetuals) General McArthur—Brilliant scarlet-crimson, large fragrant, full blossom.
Killarney Queen—Flesh color suffused with pink, loose semifull flowers of large size and attractive appearance.
Laurent Carle—Carmine-crimson, rather full flowers of very large size. Strong grower, fragrant, excellent for cutting.
Ophelia—Deservedly a most popular rose, its flowers a delicate blending of flesh color, pink and salmon.
Radiance—A charming pink, excellent in growth and foliage.

Moss Rose (buds prettily covered with mosslike down) Crested Moss—Rosy pink, fragrant and desirable from every standpoint.

Climbing Roses Dr. W. Van Fleet—Delicate flesh pink, very large flowers on good stems.
White Dorothy Perkins—Probably the best white rambler rose. Hardy, vigorous grower, flowers in great profusion.